hhmx.de

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:07:04

@cwebber suggested that I make a post asking you all to explain textiles to me but I don't think I can pull that gag off as well as she did.

Instead I'll tell a story

Melissa Santos

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:08:16

@mlemweb @cwebber it's fun to have you both here! welcome welcome

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:09:02

Body horor related to allergies

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:11:17

@cwebber

So apparently my allergies to synthetic fabrics have progressed to the point that I need to make all of my own clothes (see content warning post for context if you want it).

I went into a local fabric shop looking for 100% cotton fabrics and the lady showed me where the knits were and confirmed to me verbally three times that they were cotton

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:13:41

@cwebber

I excitedly filled up my cart and took them to the cutting counter and checked the tag as I pulled the first one out only to see 95% cotton, 3% elastine, 2% polyester.

I sadly told the lady that I couldn't use that fabric and started sorting my cart into the ones I could use and the ones I couldn't.

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:15:03

@cwebber

This woman looked me dead in the eye and told me:

"Nowhere in the world will you find 100% cotton knit fabric. It doesn't exist. That small percentage of elastine is what *makes* it a knit."

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:19:00

@cwebber

So ... instead of explaining that actually "what makes it knit" is a matter of construction (knit vs. woven), or that I have a PhD focusing on textile production in a time before elastine existed (we've got knit stockings from Ancient Egypt folks!), or that I was wearing a shirt I made out of 100% cotton jersey knit fabric from the JoAnn Fabrics in the next town over ... I just nodded and said "Okay, well I am still allergic to it so I can't buy this fabric."

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:20:38

@cwebber

She cuts the rest of my fabric (woven shirting fabric) for me and I ask if I can use the 100% cotton quilting topstitching spools of thread in a surger and she launches into a whole spiel about how the polyester thread is better and stronger

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:21:57

@cwebber

Then the employee at the next cutting counter over interrupts her and says "She can't use that, she's allergic. That's the whole point."

Doug Belshaw

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:23:43

@mlemweb @cwebber Oof. I wouldn't have stood for that. Good skills for having more emotional maturity than me 😅

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:28:13

@dajb @cwebber

So few opportunities to pull out the "I'm literally an expert on this" card and I wasted a perfect one ... but that lady wasn't going to hear me and I just needed to buy some fabric so I could make clothes that didn't make me want to claw my skin off.

Doug Belshaw

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:28:59

@mlemweb @cwebber Yeah, I hear you. Would have been so satisfying to "well actually..." her though 😂

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 17:33:45

@dajb @cwebber

I came very close. That seems like the kind of basic knowledge that she should know for her job, right? But there was a line of people behind me and I still had quite a few bolts of fabric that I was buying that she needed to cut and it didn't seem fair to the other customers to hold up the line with a lecture

Vicente ⁂

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 22:08:01

@mlemweb @cwebber if there's something I've learned from Let's Learn Everything it's that it's always Ancient Egypt...

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 23:37:26

@vgarzareyna @cwebber

That hot, arid climate preserves so many things that otherwise just decompose! They almost certainly had knit fabrics elsewhere at the same time but Egypt is where is survives in the archaeological record.

Thanasis Kinias

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 22:36:53

@mlemweb
always weird to see people making sweeping pronouncements where they clearly don’t know what they’re talking about...

But there seems to be a growing consensus in the garment industry—much to my frustration—that *everything* must have at least a few percent synthetic in it. It’s maddening!
@cwebber

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 23:33:13

@tkinias @cwebber

Exactly, this has been the bane of my existence. There are some "eco friendly" clothing manufacturers out there but in my experience those:

- Only make clothing for people who wear smaller standard sizes (no hope of having plus sizes, tall sizes, etc)

- Still use synthetic threads to sew everything together (which is what apparently set my allergies off this time)

- Often don't consider things like lining materials or decoration in their consideration of material content

amd

Föderation EN Fr 15.11.2024 23:58:41

@mlemweb

Having a PhD related to your allergy is some sort of cosmic conspiracy.

@cwebber

Dr. Morgan Lemmer-Webber

Föderation EN Sa 16.11.2024 00:24:04

@amd @cwebber

I think Clotho likes to mess with me a bit. I literally gave a talk on this twist of fate at a textile history conference last year. Especially since the allergy developed *after* I'd already finished my dissertation.

Here's the podcast episode we made from that outline: fossandcrafts.org/episodes/061